The design of a Big Twin's Powertrain is non-unitized. That is, the gearbox is mounted independently from the engine, which means the two should work side by side to transfer power. That is where the primary drive, found in that massive metal case next to the biker's left boot, comes into play.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Many of the action come about inside the inspection window that's reached by detaching the plate held on by four bolts. You will need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen up the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few spins and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the old primary fluid to empty into the pan. As it drains, you can inspect the main chain to see if it needs adjustment.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you may check out the chain's rollers for signs of wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, check the rest of the chain by spinning the engine a few turns.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Try a 9/16" deep socket to fine tune the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set up the free play from " and 7/8". After you have tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the right amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. Now you can stock up the primary case with fresh fluid. Most shops use lubes from a common source instead of single-quart cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the proper amount for your bike's model and year.
From the name itself, the main drive is the initial transfer point of power coming from the engine to, ultimately, the backend wheel. Alternating power which is produced through the engine's crankshaft is changed into revolving power through the running main chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission's input shaft. After the power recollects inside the transmission it's spread from the gears and inside the secondary drive, that is the chain or belt drive that rotates the motorcycle rear end tire. This is often a simple description of a Harley powertrain, and, as you can see, every section plays an integral part in moving you and the bike around the highway.
Given the fact that powertrain is made up of a series of moving parts, you're going to have to render periodic adjustments to them to make sure they will work properly. In time, movable parts, such as the main drive's sprockets and chain, break. As it degrades, they require adjustment to help maintain correct tolerance. And it's the main driver's multi-row roller chain that must be checked and tweaked once in a while. It's a fairly clear-cut procedure, at the same time, a method that can be done within your garage area or shop.
Many of the action come about inside the inspection window that's reached by detaching the plate held on by four bolts. You will need a ruler to make the measurements and a set of essential tools to perform the adjustments. To adjust, loosen up the adjusting shoe's 9/16" bolt just a few spins and move the shoe upwards to tighten the chain or down to loosen.
An excellent time to inspect and adjust the main chain is when you ought to drain and change the primary case oil. Harley highly suggests its multipurpose manufactured oil, however, if you do have a desired brand that's been designed for the main drive, at all cost, use it. Just make sure no matter what lubricant you decide is designed for this purpose.
Once the inspection plate is off, you've got a decent look at the chain's rollers and the adjuster shoe, so utilize the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain's rollers to find out if they're getting full lubrication, and look the adjuster shoe for cracks and such. Examining and adjusting the primary chain doesn't take long, and when you're finished you'll have one thing of the checklist of things to do on the next long drive. Just be sure to change the inspection plate gasket.
Things You'll Need:
Pipe sealant Pan for Draining T27 Torx T40 Torx 9/16" socket (deep) Ratchet Extended Ratchet Measuring Stick or Ruler
1. Basic routine service like adjusting the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when changing the primary oil. Make sure the motorcycle is secured in an upright position when you start.
2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of the old fluid. Once a drain pan is placed underneath the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that's positioned just beneath the derby cover.
3. Allow the old primary fluid to empty into the pan. As it drains, you can inspect the main chain to see if it needs adjustment.
4. Make use of a T27 Torx socket to get rid of several bolts that keep the primary inspection plate in position. It's recommended that you change the inspection plate gasket before you start to mount the plate.
5. With the inspection plate removed, you may check out the chain's rollers for signs of wear. Also, check them for signs of damage. With the transmission in neutral, check the rest of the chain by spinning the engine a few turns.
6. Always note down to readings when measuring the chain. First is with the chain's top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler against the top run to get rid of the slack and to measure once again. The difference in the two on the chain's tightest point is the chain's slack.
7. Try a 9/16" deep socket to fine tune the chain's free play. With the chain cold, set up the free play from " and 7/8". After you have tightened the nut again, measure the slack again just to be sure you have set up the right amount.
8. While the inspection plate is exposed, additionally examine the adjuster shoe that's pressing against the chain's under run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.
9. Not like the engine and transmission drain plugs, there's no O-ring on the primary case drain plug. To help seal it, apply some pipe sealant along the bottom edge of the bolt.
10. After cleaning all the lube from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, carefully torque the bolt's from the inspection plate as well as the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.
11. Now you can stock up the primary case with fresh fluid. Most shops use lubes from a common source instead of single-quart cans.
12. Fill in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the proper amount for your bike's model and year.
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Do not forget that it is important to make certain you travel with your motorcycle with safety. Always make sure that you put on true carbon fiber helmets.
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